The floor of your outdoor space sets the tone for everything else. It determines what furniture feels stable, whether water pools or drains, how hot the surface gets under bare feet, and how much maintenance you will be doing for the next twenty years. I have built patios with all three of the major flooring types, and each one taught me something the brochure did not mention.
Pavers, concrete, and wood (or composite) decking are the three dominant outdoor flooring options. Each has a distinct cost profile, installation method, and performance characteristics. Choosing between them is not just a matter of budget. It is about matching the material to your climate, your soil, your DIY skill level, and how you plan to use the space.
The Three Categories at a Glance
| Factor | Pavers | Concrete | Decking |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cost per sq ft (materials) | 4 to 20 dollars | 3 to 15 dollars | 3 to 25 dollars |
| Cost per sq ft (installed) | 10 to 30 dollars | 6 to 20 dollars | 15 to 45 dollars |
| DIY difficulty | Moderate | Hard | Moderate |
| Lifespan | 30 to 50+ years | 30 to 50 years | 10 to 25 years |
| Drainage | Excellent (permeable joints) | Poor (requires slope) | Excellent (gaps between boards) |
| Slip resistance when wet | Good to excellent | Poor to fair | Good |
| Surface temperature in sun | Very hot | Extremely hot | Warm |
| Repair difficulty | Easy (replace individual units) | Hard (patching is visible) | Moderate (replace boards) |
| Maintenance level | Low | Low to moderate | Moderate to high |
These are starting points. The details below explain why these numbers vary so much within each category.
Pavers: The Modular Option
Pavers are individual paving units, typically made of concrete, clay brick, or natural stone, laid over a prepared base of gravel and sand. They interlock through friction and edge restraints rather than mortar, which gives them flexibility and makes them the most repairable outdoor flooring option.
Types of Pavers
Concrete pavers are the most common and most affordable. They are manufactured in a wide range of shapes, colors, and textures. Quality varies enormously. A cheap concrete paver from a big box store may cost 1.50 dollars per square foot and start flaking and fading in 3 to 5 years. A high density concrete paver from a specialty supplier costs 5 to 10 dollars per square foot and lasts decades without significant wear. The difference is the concrete density, the aggregate quality, and the manufacturing pressure.
Clay brick pavers are made from fired clay. They have a classic, timeless look and the color goes all the way through (unlike concrete pavers, where color is a surface layer). Brick pavers do not fade, and they actually look better as they age and develop a weathered patina. They cost 4 to 12 dollars per square foot. The downside is limited color options (mostly reds, browns, and grays) and they are more brittle than concrete pavers, so they can chip under impact.
Natural stone pavers include flagstone, bluestone, travertine, and granite. These are the premium option, costing 10 to 30 dollars per square foot. Stone has a unique, non manufactured appearance that cannot be replicated. Travertine stays remarkably cool in the sun because it reflects light and does not absorb heat the way concrete and stone do. Granite is nearly indestructible. The downside is cost, weight (stone is heavy and expensive to ship), and the difficulty of cutting it during installation.
Permeable pavers are designed with wider joints that allow water to drain through the surface into the ground below. They are increasingly required by stormwater regulations in many municipalities. They cost about 20 percent more than standard pavers but eliminate the need for separate drainage systems.
The Base Is Everything
The performance of a paver patio depends 80 percent on the base preparation and 20 percent on the pavers themselves. I cannot stress this enough. You can install premium stone pavers over a poorly prepared base and they will sink, shift, and become uneven within a year. You can install cheap concrete pavers over a properly prepared base and they will stay flat for decades.
A proper paver base consists of:
- Subgrade: The native soil, compacted and graded to slope away from structures at 1 to 2 percent (about 1/4 inch per foot).
- Subbase: 4 to 6 inches of crushed gravel (3/4 inch minus, also called road base or Class 5), compacted in 2 inch lifts with a plate compactor.
- Bedding layer: 1 inch of coarse sand or finely crushed stone, screeded flat. Do not use more than 1 inch, because thick sand beds shift and settle.
- Pavers: Laid in the chosen pattern, cut to fit edges.
- Joint sand: Polymeric sand swept into the joints and activated with water. Polymeric sand hardens and resists weeds and ants better than plain sand.
If you skip the compaction steps or use inadequate base material, the pavers will fail. This is the most common DIY mistake. Renting a plate compactor costs about 50 dollars per day and is non negotiable for a paver installation.
Drainage Performance
Pavers drain water through the joints between units, which means the surface does not develop standing water even in heavy rain (as long as the base is properly sloped). This is a significant advantage over solid concrete. The joints also allow the ground beneath to breathe, which is better for nearby tree roots.
Permeable paver systems can absorb several inches of rain per hour, which means you can use the patio almost immediately after a storm ends. Solid surfaces stay wet and slippery for longer.
Surface Temperature
Here is a fact that surprised me the first time I measured it. Dark concrete pavers in direct sun can reach 140 to 160 degrees on a 95 degree day. That is hot enough to cause second degree burns on bare feet within a few seconds. Light colored pavers reach 110 to 130 degrees, which is uncomfortable but not dangerous.
Travertine and other light colored natural stones stay the coolest, often 20 to 30 degrees cooler than dark concrete pavers under the same conditions. If your patio gets full sun and you plan to walk barefoot, this is a critical consideration. Choose light colors and consider natural stone for sun exposed areas.
DIY Feasability
Pavers are the most DIY friendly of the three options for a determined homeowner. The skills required are basic: excavating, spreading gravel, compacting, screeding sand, laying pavers, and sweeping in joint sand. The main challenges are physical (it is hard labor) and logistical (you need to order and transport several tons of material).
A 200 square foot patio requires about 3 tons of base material, 1 ton of sand, and 1 ton of pavers. That is 5 tons of material that needs to be moved, spread, and compacted. Budget a full weekend for two people for a patio this size, and expect to be sore for a week afterward.
The one part that challenges DIYers is cutting pavers at the edges. You need a masonry saw (rentable for about 60 dollars per day) and the ability to measure and mark cuts accurately. Poor edge cuts are the most visible sign of a DIY paver job.
Concrete: The Solid Option
Concrete is the most common outdoor flooring material in America, and for good reason. It is durable, versatile, and cost effective. It is also the most permanent option, which is both its greatest strength and its greatest limitation.
Types of Concrete Surfaces
Plain broom finish concrete is the basic, no frills option. The concrete is poured, smoothed, and given a light broom texture before it cures. The broom finish provides slip resistance. This is what you see on most sidewalks and driveways. It costs 4 to 8 dollars per square foot installed and is functional but not visually exciting.
Stamped concrete is patterned and textured to look like stone, brick, or wood. A release agent is applied, and rubber stamps are pressed into the partially cured concrete. Stamped concrete costs 10 to 18 dollars per square foot and can be visually stunning when done well. The problem is that it looks fake when done poorly, and a lot of stamped concrete is done poorly. The pattern needs to be aligned, the color needs to be consistent, and the joints need to look natural. Hire a contractor with a portfolio of jobs you can visit in person.
Stained or colored concrete uses integral color (mixed into the concrete) or surface stains to add color. Integral color is more durable because the color goes all the way through. Surface stains can fade and wear, especially in high traffic areas. Colored concrete costs 1 to 4 dollars more per square foot than plain concrete.
Exposed aggregate concrete has the top layer of cement paste washed away to reveal the decorative gravel beneath. It has a textured, non slip surface and a natural stone appearance. It costs 8 to 14 dollars per square foot. The texture can be rough on bare feet, so it is better for driveways and walkways than for patios where people sit and play.
Polished concrete is ground smooth and sealed to a glossy finish. It looks modern and clean but is extremely slippery when wet, making it a poor choice for outdoor surfaces exposed to rain.
The Cracking Reality
Every concrete surface cracks. Not “might crack,” but “will crack.” Concrete shrinks as it cures, and the shrinking creates internal stress that eventually releases as a crack. The question is not whether the concrete will crack, but where and how wide.
Contractors control cracking with control joints, which are deliberate grooves cut into the concrete (either tooled while wet or sawn after initial curing). The control joints create weak lines where the concrete is encouraged to crack. If the joints are spaced correctly (no more than 2 to 3 times the slab thickness in feet, so a 4 inch slab should have joints every 8 to 12 feet), the cracks should occur in the joints and be barely visible.
Cracks that occur outside the control joints are usually caused by poor base preparation (soil settlement under the slab) or inadequate reinforcement. This is why concrete, despite seeming simple, requires careful installation. A cheap concrete job cracks everywhere. A well done concrete job cracks only in the joints.
Reinforcement Options
- Wire mesh is the traditional reinforcement, laid in the middle of the slab. It helps control shrinkage cracks but does little for structural cracks. It is being phased out in favor of fiber reinforcement.
- Fiber reinforcement consists of synthetic fibers mixed into the concrete. These distribute micro cracks throughout the slab, reducing visible cracking. Most modern concrete includes fiber as standard.
- Rebar (steel reinforcing bars) is used for structural slabs, driveways, and areas with heavy loads. For a residential patio, rebar is usually overkill unless you are pouring over poor soil or expect vehicle traffic.
Drainage and Slope
Concrete is impermeable, so all water must run off the surface. This means the slab must be sloped at least 1/4 inch per foot (2 percent) toward a drain or away from the house. On a flat patio, this means a 10 foot span drops 2.5 inches from one side to the other.
If the slope is inadequate, water pools on the surface. Pooling water stains the concrete, promotes algae growth (which makes the surface slippery), and degrades the sealer faster. Standing water also freezes in cold climates, which spalls (flakes) the concrete surface.
Surface Temperature: The Hottest Option
Concrete is the worst offender for surface temperature. Dark colored concrete in full sun can exceed 160 degrees on a hot day. Even light colored concrete reaches 130 to 140 degrees. This is because concrete has high thermal mass, meaning it absorbs and stores heat from the sun throughout the day.
I measured my concrete driveway at 158 degrees on a 96 degree afternoon. Stepping on it barefoot was painful. If your patio is in full sun and you want to use it without shoes, concrete is a difficult choice unless you add shade or choose a light reflective surface treatment.
Cool deck coatings (specialized surface treatments that reflect more sunlight) can reduce concrete surface temperature by 20 to 30 degrees, but they add 3 to 6 dollars per square foot and need reapplication every 3 to 5 years.
DIY Feasibility
Pouring concrete is the least DIY friendly of the three options. It requires: – Building and leveling formwork – Ordering ready mix concrete (which arrives in a truck and must be placed within 90 minutes) – Having enough people to spread, level, and finish the concrete before it sets – Knowledge of finishing techniques (screeding, floating, edging, jointing, brooming) – Proper curing (keeping the concrete moist for several days)
A small concrete pour (under 100 square feet) is feasible for a capable DIYer. Anything larger should be hired out. The risk of a failed DIY concrete pour is high, and once the concrete sets, mistakes are extremely difficult and expensive to fix. You essentially have to break it out and start over.
Decking: The Warm, Natural Option
Decking consists of a wooden or composite surface built on a framing structure above the ground. Unlike pavers and concrete, which sit on the ground, decking is elevated, which creates a different set of advantages and problems.
Wood Decking
Pressure treated lumber (usually Southern Yellow Pine treated with preservatives) is the most common and most affordable decking material. It costs 2 to 5 dollars per square foot for the boards. The treatment protects against rot and insects, but the wood still needs regular sealing or staining to prevent checking, splitting, and graying. Expect to reseal every 1 to 2 years.
Cedar and redwood are naturally rot resistant woods that cost 5 to 10 dollars per square foot. They have a beautiful natural color and grain. They are softer than pressure treated pine, so they dent and scratch more easily. They also need regular sealing to maintain their color, otherwise they turn gray within a year.
Tropical hardwoods like ipe, cumaru, and tigerwood are extremely dense, naturally rot resistant, and beautiful. They cost 10 to 25 dollars per square foot. These woods are so dense they sink in water and resist scratches and dents better than any other decking material. They last 25 to 40 years with minimal maintenance. The downsides are cost, the difficulty of cutting and fastening (you need to pre drill every hole), and the environmental concerns around tropical timber harvesting.
Composite Decking
Composite decking is made from a mixture of wood fiber and plastic (polyethylene or PVC). It was developed to solve the maintenance problems of wood. Composite does not rot, does not need staining, and does not splinter.
First generation composites (wood fiber mixed with polyethylene) are the most affordable at 3 to 7 dollars per square foot. They are susceptible to fading, staining, and mold. The wood fibers in the composite absorb moisture, which can lead to swelling and mold growth in damp climates.
Capped composites have a wood fiber core with a plastic shell (the cap) that wraps the board on all four sides or on the top and sides. The cap provides stain, fade, and mold resistance. These cost 5 to 12 dollars per square foot and are the current standard for residential composite decking.
PVC decking contains no wood fiber at all. It is 100 percent plastic. This makes it completely immune to moisture, mold, and rot. It costs 7 to 15 dollars per square foot. PVC is lighter than composite and easier to work with, but it can look more plasticky and some people find it sounds hollow when walked on.
The Frame Matters as Much as the Boards
Decking boards are only the visible surface. The structural frame beneath (joists, beams, posts) carries the load and determines the deck’s lifespan. A deck with premium composite boards over a rotting wood frame is a failed deck.
Pressure treated lumber is the standard framing material for all decks, including composite and PVC decks. The frame must be properly sized (joist spacing of 16 inches for most decking, 12 inches for diagonal layouts or heavy materials) and properly flashed where it attaches to the house. Ledger board failure (where the deck pulls away from the house due to improper flashing and fastening) is the leading cause of deck collapses.
If you are building a deck, do not skimp on the frame. Use galvanized or stainless hardware, flash the ledger properly, and size the joists correctly. The frame is what keeps the deck safe and level.
Drainage
Decking drains naturally through the gaps between boards. Standard gap spacing is 1/8 to 1/4 inch for composite (which does not shrink) and 1/4 to 3/8 inch for wood (which shrinks as it dries). Water falls through the gaps to the ground below.
This means the ground under the deck stays wet, which can create a mud pit, promote weed growth, and provide habitat for pests. For low decks (under 30 inches off the ground), lay landscape fabric and gravel under the deck to suppress weeds and manage mud. For elevated decks, the area underneath can be used for storage or even as a shaded patio.
Some decking systems include under deck drainage (corrugated panels that channel water to the edge), which creates a dry space under the deck. These add 4 to 8 dollars per square foot but are worth it if you want to use the space below.
Surface Temperature
Wood and composite decking both get hot in direct sun, but not as hot as concrete or pavers. Pressure treated pine reaches about 110 to 120 degrees in full sun. Cedar and redwood are similar. Tropical hardwoods stay cooler because their density and natural oils reflect more heat.
Composite and PVC decking can get surprisingly hot, often hotter than wood. Dark colored composites in full sun can reach 130 to 140 degrees. Light colored composites stay under 120 degrees. If your deck is in full sun, choose light colored boards and avoid dark colors that absorb heat.
DIY Feasibility
Decking is moderately DIY friendly, comparable to pavers. The skills required include: – Framing (cutting and fastening joists and beams, attaching to posts) – Installing the ledger board and flashing (critical for safety) – Laying and fastening boards with consistent spacing – Cutting boards to length and fitting around posts and obstacles
The main challenge is the structural work. A deck frame must be level, properly supported, and safely attached to the house. Mistakes in the frame lead to a bouncy, sagging, or dangerous deck. If you are not confident in your carpentry skills, hire out the frame and do the board installation yourself.
Comparing Long Term Costs
The upfront cost is only part of the picture. Over a 20 year period, maintenance costs can equal or exceed the installation cost.
20 Year Cost Comparison (per square foot)
| Material | Installed Cost | Annual Maintenance | 20 Year Maintenance | Total 20 Year Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Concrete pavers (mid range) | 15 dollars | 0.50 dollars | 10 dollars | 25 dollars |
| Stamped concrete | 14 dollars | 0.75 dollars | 15 dollars | 29 dollars |
| Plain concrete | 8 dollars | 0.30 dollars | 6 dollars | 14 dollars |
| Pressure treated wood deck | 18 dollars | 2.00 dollars | 40 dollars | 58 dollars |
| Cedar deck | 25 dollars | 2.00 dollars | 40 dollars | 65 dollars |
| Composite deck | 28 dollars | 0.50 dollars | 10 dollars | 38 dollars |
| Tropical hardwood deck | 35 dollars | 1.00 dollars | 20 dollars | 55 dollars |
These are rough averages. Your actual costs will vary based on local labor rates, material availability, and the size of your project. The point is that low maintenance materials (pavers, concrete, composite) have significantly lower lifetime costs than wood, even though wood has a lower upfront cost.
Slip Resistance Compared
Slip resistance matters for safety, especially around pools and in wet climates.
- Concrete pavers with textured surface: Excellent wet and dry
- Smooth concrete (broom finish): Good dry, fair wet
- Stamped concrete: Fair dry, poor wet (the texture can be deceptive)
- Wood decking (with grip): Good wet and dry
- Composite decking: Varies by brand, some are slippery when wet
- PVC decking: Can be slippery when wet, especially with algae
If safety is a priority, especially for children or elderly users, textured pavers or wood decking with anti slip strips are the safest choices. Avoid polished or smooth surfaces in wet areas.
Making Your Decision
Choose Pavers If
- You want a surface you can repair yourself by replacing individual units
- You need good drainage (pool surroundings, wet climates)
- You want a surface that can be removed or modified later
- You enjoy DIY projects and are willing to do the base work properly
- You live in a cold climate where freeze thaw cycles would crack concrete
Choose Concrete If
- You want the lowest cost per square foot for a large area
- You need a surface for heavy loads (driveway, outdoor kitchen)
- You want a smooth, continuous surface with no joints
- You live in a mild climate with stable soil
- You are hiring a professional contractor
Choose Decking If
- Your patio is on a slope or uneven ground (decking can be leveled on posts)
- You want a surface that stays cooler than concrete or pavers
- You are building over an existing surface (roof deck, over old concrete)
- You want the warmth and natural look of wood
- You need access to utilities beneath the surface (plumbing, electrical)
My Experience After Installing All Three
I have a paver patio at my current house, a concrete slab at my previous house, and a wood deck at my parents’ house that I help maintain. Each one has its place.
The paver patio is my favorite for daily use. It drains well, it looks good, and when a tree root lifted one corner after five years, I spent an afternoon lifting the affected pavers, re leveling the base, and resetting them. Try doing that with concrete. The pavers have stayed flat and stable for eight years now with zero maintenance beyond occasional polymeric sand top up.
The concrete slab was the cheapest and fastest to install, and it has developed two cracks outside the control joints despite proper installation. The cracks are cosmetic, not structural, but they collect dirt and grow weeds. I would not choose concrete again for a patio, though I would use it for a driveway where the continuous surface is an advantage.
The wood deck is beautiful but demands constant attention. Every two years, I spend a weekend cleaning, sanding, and resealing it. Boards have cracked and needed replacement. The frame has been inspected and repaired twice. It is 15 years old and approaching the end of its life. When it is replaced, it will be with composite.
The right outdoor floor depends on your priorities: budget, maintenance tolerance, climate, and aesthetics. There is no single best option, but there is a best option for your specific situation. Match the material to your reality, not to the photo in a catalog, and you will have an outdoor floor that serves you well for decades.
